Antarctica Marathon Race Report

Here we go....!

The final mile marker, tantilizingly displayed at the opening welcome ceremony.

The first task of race prep was scrubbing clean our running shoes in the biocide trays on the ship. Everything that touches Antarctica has to be clean of organic material from other places.

My race kit, ready to go for early wake-up call on race day, March 10. No plastic wrappers are allowed on shore, so I kept a mini dry bag in my pocket filled with unwrapped Clif Bloks. (No nutrition with seeds or egg products was allowed either.)

A windy, wet Zodiak ride got us from ship to shore for the race. Here, everyone is unpacking their race bags and stripping out of their red wetskins before the start.

Water bottles half-buried in the gravel before the race.

A cold, windy wait at the start line. Later that day Sophie told me the winds were 30 knots, about 35 mph. (Others said there were gusts up to 40 knots.)

Here comes the pack, first pass at the race course.

The race course was this dirt road that connect three countries' research bases, Russia, Chile and China. We ran from Russia, through Chile to China and back six times.

All Antarctic Treaty System rules for encountering wildlife were still in effect: if we encountered penguins, we had to stop running to let them pass. (I really, really wish this had happened to me, but alas....)

Church at the Chilean base. Arriving in the Zodiak, someone asked, "Is that a cross over there?" The guide answered, "Yeah, it's where we put the dead the runners."

Antarctic moonscape on King George Island.

The race was an out-and-back that we ran six times, which sounds dreadful but each time the landscape looked totally different to me. (The first time I passed this lake I didn't even notice it was there.)

Entrance to the Chinese research station.

Whale bones and distance markers at the Russian research base. ("Uglich, 15675 km.")

Some of the beach gravel and pebbles we ran on. (Every time I got to this location, I read this sign as, "China: Turn Around!")

This part of the course is sheltered from the howling wind coming off the water. Other stretches were totally exposed and seriously exhausting.

Long stretches of mud filled the roadway.

I threw out these shoes after the race.

6 hours 15 minutes later....

Crossing the finish line!

Total relief and elation as I get my medal. Every time Emma and I passed each other on the course she chanted to me, "I want my medal! I want my medal!"

Ta-da! Done!

Finisher's certificate. Awww.

Photo disclaimer: Many of these photos were taken and shared by others on my trip; the credits are unknown except where watermarked.

Whales!

The most extraordinary time on the water was the last evening in Wilhelmina Bay, with humpback whales encircling us while they fed on krill.

Lisa took this photo from another Zodiak boat. Mine is the tiny gray-beanied face on the left side of this boat.

Three humpback whales side by side.

Two tiny Zodiak boats in the distance.

Humpback whale's throat expanding as it gulps down huge volumes of water.

The good ship Vavilov in the background.

A humpback whale sinking back into the water.

That is great ice in the background! (Also, nice fluke.)

Extraordinary, peaceful and foggy: Wilhelmina Bay.

Photo disclaimer: Many of these photos were taken and shared by others on my trip; the credits are unknown except where watermarked.

Seals!

 

Penguins are adorable and whales are overwhelming, but seals seem more familiar to anyone who grew up near an ocean. I hereby apologize to the amazing, charismatic seals of Antarctica for underestimating you. Below are photos of fur seals, but Weddell seals and an occasional leopard seal were also in the mix.

Handsome fur seal, posing on a bergy bit in Neko Harbor.

Seals and glaciers at Mikkelson Harbor.

How can you not love this face?

Whaddya looking at? (Half Moon Island.)

The least graceful seals. Dunking in the water at Paradise Bay.

Photo disclaimer: Many of these photos were taken and shared by others on my trip; the credits are unknown except where watermarked.

Penguins!!

Chinstrap penguins, Half Moon Island

Actually, it's hard to think or write the word 'penguin' without exuberant exclamation points. Without effort it just comes out as penguins!!! because they are so darn charming.

This rock outcropping on Half Moon Island is home to hundreds and hundreds of chinstrap penguins, barely distinguishable here against the snow-covered rocks.

 

And a few random Gentoo penguins in the mix at Half Moon Island.

Gentoo penguins at Neko Harbor.

A Gentoo at Mikkelson Harbor. He had so little to say, I didn't even press 'record.'

This poor little guy is molting, but a took a few minutes to check us out.

Not sure if the Gentoo or Andy won the staring contest.

Photo disclaimer: Many of these photos were taken and shared by others on my trip; the credits are unknown except where watermarked.